EXPERT ROUNDTABLE: THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO BUYING A PERFORMANCE EXHAUST

Buying a performance exhaust is one of the most rewarding upgrades you can make to a vehicle, but the market is filled with confusing claims and varying quality. To help you cut through the noise, we gathered a panel of experts from AWE—ranging from R&D engineers to executives—to answer the tough questions drivers ask most.

The Expert Panel

  • Kyle Rockefeller, Engineering Supervisor
  • Huey Eskow, Senior R&D Specialist
  • Pete Pirog, Engineer 1
  • Dane Pellicone, Operations Director
  • Jesse Kramer, Chief Marketing Officer
  • Sara Riordan, Senior Performance Specialist

1. Terminology: What is the difference between "Cat-back" and "Axle-back"?

The Expert Answer (Sara Riordan, Senior Performance Specialist):

"It comes down to how much of the system you are replacing, which dictates the sound and performance you get.

Axle-back
This replaces the parts behind the rear axle (mostly mufflers and tips). This is primarily for sound and aesthetics. It’s a great budget-friendly entry point if you just want a better exhaust note.

Cat-back
This replaces everything from the catalytic converter back. This includes larger diameter piping and optimized bends. This is where you unlock the real performance gains (flow) combined with the most complete sound upgrade."

2. Sound: How do I get a loud tone without the "Drone"?

The Expert Answer (Huey Eskow, Senior R&D Specialist):

"This is the biggest myth we face—that exhaust systems inevitably cause droning. Getting more volume is easy; any shop can cut off a muffler. But can it be done in a way that keeps the car practical for daily use? That’s where engineering comes in.

When you are shopping, look for a system that uses sound cancellation, not just packing material or baffles. You want physics working for you, not against you. For example, we use a solution called 180 Technology®. It allows us to deliver an ideal balance: great sound and added horsepower, but with a frequency-canceling design that kills the drone. It takes a lot of R&D time to get right, but it means you don't have to compromise comfort for performance."

3. Power Gains: Does an exhaust really add horsepower?

The Expert Answer (Jesse Kramer, Chief Marketing Officer):

"You have to be very careful with marketing claims in this industry. Many manufacturers claim crazy high gains over stock, but the reality is that modern, late-model vehicles are already tuned very efficiently from the factory. You should generally expect a solid 5-10hp gain on most applications—not 50hp, unless you are doing major engine work.

When looking at power claims, check the methodology. Strict dynamometer guidelines are essential: testing the vehicle stock and then modified on the same day to eliminate weather variables, and publishing Wheel Horsepower (whp), not 'Crank' estimates. That is the standard we hold ourselves to at AWE.

While some newer vehicles can not be dyno'd, heed this major warning: If a company doesn't show you dyno numbers at all, run (assuming the vehicle can be dyno'd). It is entirely possible to lose power by installing a poorly designed aftermarket exhaust that messes with backpressure. If they aren't showing the data, there's usually a reason."

4. Legality: Will I get a ticket for having a loud exhaust?

The Expert Answer (Kyle Rockefeller, Engineering Supervisor):

"This is a common worry, but the rules are usually clearer than people think. In most jurisdictions, the law requires a vehicle to have a 'muffling device.'

The easiest way to tell if an exhaust is compliant is the visual test: Does it have a dedicated section that is larger than the rest of the piping?

  • The Visual Check: If you look at a system and see a straight pipe from front to back, that usually fails the definition. However, if you see a welded-in component that is wider than the tubing (like a resonator or muffler body), that generally meets the definition of a muffling device.
  • The 'Upstream' Factor: Even if you buy an 'Axle-back' that looks like straight pipes, remember that your car likely still has resonators or mufflers further up the system (near the engine). As long as those factory devices remain, the vehicle still technically has muffling devices."

5. Reliability: Will an aftermarket exhaust trigger a Check Engine Light?

The Expert Answer (Kyle Rockefeller, Engineering Supervisor):

"It is absolutely not inevitable—if you buy the right brand. A Check Engine Light (CEL) usually means the exhaust flow has triggered an O2 sensor reading that is out of spec. This happens when companies don't do enough testing on the specific vehicle's computer logic.

You should look for a product that explicitly offers a No CEL Guarantee. At AWE, we engineer our systems to ensure that the flow rates and sensor placements keep the car's ECU happy. You shouldn't have to stare at an orange warning light just to enjoy better sound."

6. Fitment: How do I know it will fit my specific vehicle?

The Expert Answer (Dane Pellicone, Operations Director):

"Fitment is the difference between a fun afternoon project and a nightmare. When we talk about 'fitment,' we are talking about respect for the installer. Brands that understand the realities of flat-rate labor or driveway installs prioritize precise tolerances.

AWE was founded by an installer, so we have a Fitment Guarantee. If an exhaust requires you to hammer or weld just to get it on the car, it wasn't engineered correctly. Look for bolt-on systems that are designed specifically for your model's chassis."

7. Installation: Can I install this myself, or do I need a pro?

The Expert Answer (Dane Pellicone, Operations Director):

"Put the welder away. If you buy a properly engineered system, it should be a direct bolt-on replacement. If you know how to use a socket set and can safely lift your car (jack stands or ramps), you can install most of our systems in your driveway.

However, know your limits. If you aren't comfortable working under a car, any professional shop can get it done quickly since no fabrication is required. But for many enthusiasts, the install is half the fun."

8. Materials: Does the type of steel actually matter?

The Expert Answer (Pete Pirog, Engineer 1):

"They might look the same new, but they won't look the same after a winter of salted roads. If you want the exhaust to last, you have to look at the metallurgy. The industry gold standard is .065” walled T304L stainless steel.

The 'L' stands for low carbon, which is crucial for corrosion resistance, and the .065” wall thickness is vital for durability and tone control. Many cheaper options use T409, aluminized steel, or thin-walled tubing that buzzes and eventually rots. If you are keeping your car, or want the part to hold value, T304L is the requirement."

9. Off-Road vs. Street: What features should truck owners look for?

The Consumer Question: "I take my Jeep/Truck off-road. Should I be worried about crushing my exhaust on rocks?"

The Expert Answer(Sara Riordan, Senior Performance Specialist):

"Absolutely. For the off-road, Jeep, and Truck markets, you can't just slap a street exhaust on and hope for the best. We urge customers to look for 'High-Tuck' designs.

For example, on many of our truck and offroad lines including Jeep 392, we utilize a BashGuard™ system. It gets ahead of potential issues an off-roader would have on the trails, meaning it sits high and clear of obstacles. Always check if the manufacturer has actually tested the product in the environment you drive in."

Looking for more intel? AWE Performance Specialists are standing by, right this way!